Izmir, Turkey | A Fusion of History, Culture, and Modernity

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Written by Hugo Martinez
Dec 27, 2024 7-min read

The town is the country’s Aegean dude, a cluster of history areas surrounded by the shout of progressive livelihoods.

Perched by the sea and packed with shops, sales and things to do, it’s the 3rd most colonized Turkish metropolis and a brilliant blend of the past of old Smyrna and the upgrading present.

Between the delightful shores and rushing trendsetting places, magnificent old slabs and unusual modern creations.

Izmir, Turkey

Rich Cultural Heritage and Historical Insights

Picture yourself strolling streets that were once home to the likes of Plato and Aristotle while Ottoman traders peddled their wares. That’s Izmir. Originally known as Smyrna, for over 8,500 years this sprawling metropolis has been a crossroads of cultures and home to one of the longest continuously inhabited urban areas in the Mediterranean.

It’s been ruled by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, with each empire leaving their mark on both the city’s culture and architecture.

Izmir was known as the “Pearl of the Levant” and is home to one of the Seven Churches of Revelation (mentioned in the Bible). There’s also an ancient agora here that was constructed in the Roman era, proving the city was important even then. But most impressive were the amount of locals still living in the historic neighborhood of Kemeraltı.

These narrow streets with Ottoman-era buildings are well-preserved and locals still occupy them.

But its history took an interesting twist in 1922. That’s when a huge fire swept virtually the whole historic center away, leading to a massive rebuild. The fire, in fact, was a formative moment in modern Izmir as French and Turkish architects worked together to create the wide boulevards and elegant buildings in which you’re standing now. The Kordon, the famous promenade along the Aegean, lined with beautiful Turkish Republic-era buildings. This is the city coming back to life.

Kordons Seaside Promenade

Most visitors are not aware that, under today’s busy streets, lays an ancient city. In the past few years, whole Roman-era neighborhoods have been uncovered, complete with houses, stores, and even water ducts. Some of the findings can be seen at the interesting Smyrna Ancient City Excavation Site. It is a great opportunity to explore a history that’s thousands of years old.

The Izmir of today is a lovely blend of the old and the new. Ancient ruins sit comfortably next to modern art galleries, and traditional bazaars run parallel to modern malls. The historic elevator in the Asansör neighborhood (built in 1907 and used to help people up the steep hillside) is still in operation and provides a great view of the bay.

Unique Cultural Practices and Local Lifestyle

Life in Izmir is lived up close in a special way, where morning coffee turns into joint evening walks on the Kordon. You soon realize that the peoplethere like to be outside, in one of the many tea houses, where Turkish coffee is drunk and börek is eaten, they meet with friends and have their conversations. The famous relaxedness of the city becomes very clear in the phrase “In Izmir it’s cool,” what was meant the easy-going way of the people.

Turkish Kebab

The art scene in Izmir is incredible, particularly in the hip Alsancak neighborhood. Converted warehouses and modern galleries display the works of local artists, and even the walls seem to be covered in street art. In addition to art walks and cultural events, Izmir also manages to attract artists old and young to its city.

The best part? The neighborhood-wide art installations that frequently spill out into the streets.

Food is a major part of the lifestyle here, and the locals are proud of their food culture. Popular throughout the regionisboyoz, a puff pastry you’ll see everyone eating in the morning with çay(Turkish tea). Visit the Kemeraltı Bazaar and you’ll watch locals negotiating for the best prices while also sitting down at hidden cafés within the historic hans (old inns).

This place is literally filled with music, especially in the evenings when the meyhanes (traditional Turkish taverns) open. They’re not just restaurants though; they are where locals go to eat meze (small plates), drink rakı (an anise-flavored beverage), and listen to traditional live Turkish music. Don’t worry, you won’t have to twist my arm to dance either!

Art Scene in Izmir

The contemporary youth scene is lively in certain parts of town, such as Bornova, where college students hang out in hip cafés and bookstores. Young people here have a knack for mixing the old with the new. They may wear the latest fashions yet shop for spices in an ancient market or snap selfies while chowing down on kumru, a traditional sandwich.

Year-Round Festivals and Seasonal Events

Izmir hosts a number of vibrant festivals and events year-round that highlight its cultural heritage. The largest event is the Izmir International Fair, held each September since 1933, that effectively transform the city into one big fairground complete with concerts, art exhibits, trade fairs, food events, and more!

Warm summer evenings see the streets come alive with the sound of music, laughter, and people out enjoying alfresco concerts and cultural shows.

The International Izmir Festival, which runs June– July, hosts a variety of elite musicians at historic sites throughout the city. Picture listening to classical music in a Roman amphitheater or jazz in a centuries-old courtyard! Every performance is better due to the unique historical location.

You can go and not understand a word of the language and you’ll still be in awe of the place.

In spring, head to nearby Gölköy for the fabulous Cherry Blossom Festival and have a picnic amid pink blossoms. The October Wine Festival, located in the pretty Urla  area, provides wine tastings and traditional music and dance. If you’re into food, don’t miss the Herb Festival, located in Urla and held in March, where you can sample up to 40 local dishes using spring herbs.

Looking for more unique things to do? It’s worth timing your visit to attend the Puppet Days Festival each November.

The event attracts puppet masters and companies from all over. The Karagöz and Hacivat shadow puppet shows are a lot of fun — and you don’t need to know Turkish to enjoy them! And on the weekends in the summer, there’s always a street festival in one neighborhood or the other where you can participate in cooking classes, see traditional crafts being made, and even learn some Turkish folk dancing.

Turkish Shadow Play

The holiday spirit in December makes the city feel like a Turkish winter wonderland with a European twist.

New Year’s Eve is especially amazing, as the city puts on fireworks shows over the bay and there are parties all along the waterfront on the Kordon.

And if you’re here on April 23rd, don’t miss the Children’s Festival, where kids from around the world come here to perform and play. It’s a very touching event to witness!

Navigating Transportation and Travel Logistics

Izmir is very easy to navigate so you have a ton of choices! The metro system is sleek and quick, connecting the airport to the heart of the city. You can also take the IZBAN (a suburban train) to the outlying areas, or one of the old, red-and-cream trams that travel the waterfront.

Buses are abundant in Izmir, and using one is a breeze if you have an Izmirim Card. It’s a pre-charged card that allows you to use public transportation.

They can be purchased at any metro station or accredited retailer, which saves you from having to purchase tickets for each ride. Download the “İzmir Ulaşım” app to track real-time schedules and plan your journey in advance.

IZBAN in Turkey

Taxis are easy to find and quite inexpensive; just ensure the driver uses the meter before setting off. For a bit of an adventure, take a dolmuş, which are shared minibuses that follow assigned routes and are popular with the locals. Simply flag one down, jump in, and pass your money up to the driver!

When it comes to sightseeing, the metro is your BFF, as you can get directly to the Ancient Agora and Konak Square via the metro line. From Konak, it’s just a short walk to the Asansör (a historic elevator) district, and most of the major sights in the city are near a public transportation stop.

If you want to take day trips to Ephesus or Çeşme, you can take a bus from the main bus station or book an organized tour. You could also rent a. Just be prepared for some unusual driving and little downtown parking!

Note that public transportation stops around midnight and most late-night options will be limited to taxis. Make sure you have your hotel’s address written in Turkish representing where you want to go. Taxis are the best, and safest, way to get around late at night.

Discovering Local Secrets: Hidden Gems of Izmir

If you want to experience Izmir from an insider’s perspective, I’ll show you some incredible places where tourists rarely go. One such hidden gem is the enchanting Kızlarağası Han, an Ottoman inn located in the middle of Kemeraltı Market. Inside this historic building, you can enjoy a traditional cup of Turkish coffee in the courtyard and gaze at centuries-old structures. If there’s any action upstairs in the minuscule workshops, stop by to observe local craftsmen at work. You might even get the chance to buy a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

Check out the colorful Kadifekale district, filled with narrow streets that lead to an ancient castle offering panoramic views of the entire city.

The residents are incredibly welcoming and you may be lucky enough to be asked to share a cup of çay (Turkish tea) in their beautiful gardens. Just make sure to stop by the little lokanta (restaurant) next to the entrance of the castle — their homemade mantı (Turkish dumplings) are amazing!

Kadifekale Castle

Ever been to Buca? These were the Levantine merchant streets and the Levantines were very good builders. They filled it with lemon, pomegranate and bitter orange trees, and you can still see some of their mansions lining the streets. You can still stroll the old Buca streets and drink lemonade and eat börek in one of the hidden courtyard cafes. You probably want to have some homemade lemonade; it’s fantastic. And don’t be surprised to see some little old ladies selling preserves and knitting from their garden gate.

Food-wise, there’s a hidden place in Alsancak named “Sokak Lezzetleri” (Street Flavors), and local grandmothers make traditional Aegean food that’s not available anywhere else. Don’t miss the çi börek (deep-fried dough filled with meat) — it’s amazing! The ideal time to go is around early evening so you can have everything right out of the pot.

Do you want to watch the sunset but don’t want to brave the (still) chaotic Kordon? The Bayraklı coast, which is much less crowded, offers a laid-back break from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are some traditional tea gardens there that attract residents who come out to enjoy a round of backgammon and the sunset. Street vendors also sell delicious mussels.

To get a feel for Turkish village life without actually going into the village, go to Yeşildere on a Sunday morning to explore the weekly farmers’ market. There’s an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables and village bread and kinds of cheese you never suspected existed. And they’ll show you how to make Turkish coffee the right way if you inquire!

Language Tips and Communication Essentials

Though English is widely understood in the tourist areas, knowing some Turkish can greatly enhance your trip! “Merhaba” (hello) and “Teşekkür ederim” (thank you) are a good place to start. Just knowing those phrases will warm up the locals. Don’t stress over getting the pronunciation right either; they’ll be thankful you’re trying!

Here are a few phrases to get you by: “Günaydın” (good morning), “İyi akşamlar” (good evening), and “Hoşça kalın” (goodbye). If you’re lost or can’t find something, you can ask, “İngilizce biliyor musunuz?” (Do you speak English?), and the younger locals will help you out. When negotiating at the bazaar, numbers and “Ne kadar?” (How much?) will help a ton.

In order to ask for directions, just say “Nerede?” (Where is?) and bring along a map that you can point to. It’s a sure way to be understood. Most street signs and metro stops are in both Turkish and English, which is a big help when you’re trying to figure out exactly where you are. In touristy areas, the menus are likely to have pictures or English descriptions, but I recommend trying to learn a few words, such as “köfte” (meatballs) and “pide” (a type of pizza).

Locals love it when you make an effort to speak their language, so be sure give Turkish a shot, even if you only know a few words! If you get stuck, don’t fret — gestures, smiles, and charades will also help you get your point across in Izmir. When nodding, remember that a head movement up and down signals “yes” while side to side is “no” (opposite of what is used in Eastern Europe).

Turkish Etiquette

Want to get some friends fast? Learn to say “Çok güzel!” — it means “Very beautiful/nice,” and it’s a versatile compliment that works on everything from food to scenery to the city itself. Pro tip: if someone offers you çay (tea), accepting it is a good way to make a new friend!

For emergencies, save these words to your phone: “Yardım” (help), “Hastane” (hospital), and “Polis” (police). You’ll find at least one person at most hotels and restaurants who speaks English well too, so you’re never too far from help if you need it.

Conclusion

Don’t just read about Izmir – visit the city to see for yourself!

Let the sea wind guide you through the streets where philosophers strolled and find out why the city has been winning people’s hearts for the past thousand years.

As the locals like to say “Everything’s okay in Izmir” – and they’re right because, in this beautiful Aegean Sea city, everything is!